What's in my Bag? - Wildlife Photography Kit List
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I wrote my full kit list for everything that I even glance at when I go out for a day of landscape photography a few months ago in my article “What’s in my Bag? - My Landscape Photography Kit List” and it got me thinking about what I use for my wildlife photography.
There are some that may think that the kit that I use is more complicated than it need be and sometimes that’s true. I wrote that full article with everything that I use because I wanted to show the little bits and bobs that you may not think about.
So it’s the same here, I’m going to start with the obvious stuff and give you an idea of the lenses that I use, which may be of use to you if you are looking to get into wildlife photography, but also to give an idea of other little bits and pieces that I have found useful over the last few years.
Any questions are always welcome in the comments below.
1. Camera
When I go out to capture animals, without any doubt, I will immediately reach for my Canon 1DX II. It is an amazing camera capable at capturing quick animals at stupidly high ISO speeds. The burst rate of the continuous shooting mode is more than double what it was in my Canon 5D Mark III, which is the difference between getting the shot of an osprey with their wings spread and a shot with their wings bent. So, the 1DX II effectively double the odds of getting a decent shot, just from an increase in frame rate. As well as that it’s ability to handle high ISO numbers and not produce significant noise means that I am able to work in darker conditions with faster shutter speeds than I was able to with the 5D Mark III.
That being said, a few months after I purchased my 1DX II, Canon announced the launch and subsequent release of the 1DX Mark III and R5 both of which look like amazing upgrades to the 1DX II, and if truth be told, I am leaning towards another camera change to the R5 . . .
I also have a Canon 7D Mark II, which is a fabulous camera and I bought it mainly to be used for wildlife. ‘Why?’ I hear you ask. Well, the 7D series use an APS-C Sensor instead of a Full Frame 35mm sensor like that used by the 1D, 5D and R5 series cameras.
The difference between sensors and camera types is another article that I would like to write at some point, but the main reason I bought this camera for use with wildlife is because it increases the focal length of the lens you put on it. So a 300mm lens is exactly that on the 1DX mark II or R5 but when put on a 7D, the focal length is increased by a factor of 1.6. Suddenly that 300mm is now reaching a whopping 480mm and it is still at F4.
The highlight of using an APS-C camera is that you get extra reach with lenses without loosing speed.
2. Zoom Lens
The most useful lens with wildlife photography by far is a zoom lens. An introduction zoom lens that most people can find the funds for would be a Tamron 70-300mm. These zooms are good, especially when starting out, but at some point you are going to want an upgrade and one of the best lenses out there for this category is the Canon 100-400mm. I often have this lens on a wildlife photography excursion, and I wouldn’t be without it!
If you have heaps of money then you could always forego the 100-400mm and buy the Canon 200-400mm with built in 1.4x teleconverter instead. Both are amazingly sharp but the extra reach with the inbuilt teleconverter can be very useful. The only problem is the price!
3. Prime Lenses
Wildlife photography without a doubt benefits from prime lenses way more than landscape photography. I’m going to write an article comparing variable focal length lenses and prime lenses in the future but for now let’s have a quick talk about their use in wildlife photography. Prime lenses are great because they are lighter and often faster (with a wider aperture) than their zoom lens equivalents because they don’t require the extra glass and mechanics to move elements to create a varying focal length. Meaning they can be light and fast. But their drawback is you are limited to one field of view, and if you are too close or too far away you are going to miss the shot.
The prime lenses that I have in my camera bag are:
Canon 300mm f4 - this is a great lens, incredibly sharp and surprisingly fast at f4. I chose this lens over the Canon 300mm f2.8 for 2 reasons: 1 price and 2 weight. The price difference and weight savings between the 2 lenses is extraordinary. The f2.8 has the advantage of an extra stop of light and improved bokeh but I can do without those things to save weight and money.
Canon 500mm f4 - this is by far my most used wildlife photography lens. It is impeccably sharp but that comes at a price. This lens is expensive, as is its bigger brother the Canon 600mm f4 lens. But if you want to get serious about wildlife photography then you will definitely have to invest in one of them. The extra reach in focal length is essential for getting those close up shots.
If there was one other prime lens that I could add to my repertoire, it would have to be the Canon 400mm f2.8. I know what I wrote about the 300mm f2.8 above applies to this lens. But the only reason I would be investing in this lens is to fill the gap between the 300mm and 500mm and to get that extra stop of light. There have been a couple situations where I wished that I had a fast lens such as this one. But to have it would be a luxury and one that I can get by without at the moment.
If I had to buy one lens then it would definitely be the 500mm or 600mm, without a doubt!
4. Teleconverters
Teleconverters can be an incredibly useful thing to have in the bag. An easy way to increase the focal length of any lens. If you are going to invest in teleconverters then I strongly suggest you forget investing in a third company teleconverter, they may be a little cheaper but there may come a time when you lens won’t work with it anymore and you will probably notice a drop in quality as well. So stick with the brand of your camera, in my case that’s:
Canon 1.4x teleconverter - which amplifies the focal length of the chosen lens by 1.4x the stated amount. So if I put that on my 300mm lens, it would become a 420mm lens. The downside is the aperture decreases as well, so it goes from being an f4 lens to an f5.6.
Canon 2x teleconverter - which doubles the focal length and the aperture, so that 300mm f4 lens would become a 600mm f8 lens.
Because teleconverters can increase the focal length of a lens that can be incredibly useful and that’s why I carry them. But they can also decrease the quality of the image and that increase in aperture leads to an increase in depth of field and that can mean more things come into focus that we don’t want in focus. So teleconverters can be a bit of a trade off, some benefits and some drawbacks.
5. Tripod
No photographer in the world can be without a tripod! The tripod I currently use, which has changed since I wrote my Landscape Photography Kit List and now requires an update, is a Gitzo Series 5 LS. I have fitted a Manfrotto 100mm bowl head to the tripod base, this means that I can have the tripod in any crazy position and still get a level base as the bowl can be adjusted. At some point, I want to change the feet on the tripod as the rubber ones that came with it drive me a bit mad. The other drawback of such a stable tripod is weight. It is heavy! But I have yet to find a tripod that fills all the points that I want.
On top of the bowl I use a Lens Master Gimbal. The best out there without a doubt. I had a Sirui gimbal before and I regretted my purchase instantly! The knobs didn’t work probably, the motion was jarring or stiff, and I could never lock the movements, so often my camera would swing around if I wasn’t holding it! It was made of carbon fibre and so complicated there was no hop of a repair, in the field or at home and I was not prepared to send it somewhere for a repair that would cost the earth!
In contrast the Lens Master Gimbal is perfect because of its simplicity. It’s easy to take it apart if needed to lubricate or clean the joints, the movements can easily be locked and it’s practically half the price of what I paid for the Sirui!
If you want a gimbal, don’t go fancy, stick with the stuff that works: Lens Master!
6. Binoculars
Binoculars are a must for any wildlife photographer, how else would we spot our subject? My preference is for a simple 10x42 set.
Viking 10x42 Binoculars are relatively inexpensive and are pretty good quality. Some people recommend a pair of 8x32 binoculars instead because they are a little lighter and the increased magnification of the 10x42 set is negligible, but that’s personal preference.
I have to admit if money was no issue I would invest in a pair of Leica 8x32 Ultravid Binoculars. I’ve borrowed a pair in the past and because the quality and clarity of the glass is so brilliant they outshine the Viking 10x42 binoculars even though the magnification is less. They are also incredibly small and lightweight by comparison! But they cost more than most of the lenses mentioned above!
7. Memory Cards and Batteries
I use a Sandisk Extreme Pro 64GB CF card for my 5D mark III but for my new 1DX mark II I use a Sandisk Extreme Pro 128GB CFast 2.0 card.
The new CFast card has a read speed of over 500mb per minute and is specifically designed to keep up with the speed of cameras like the 1DX mark II.
The CF cards are a standard memory card that fits most of the higher end cameras as they are a bit more rugged than SD cards.
As well as memory cards I also carry spare batteries, I bought some batteries made by a company other than Canon and they have served me brilliantly but most people would recommend sticking with Canon.
8. Wellington Boots
I always use my Muck Boots Muckmaster Wellingtons, they currently live in my car and are often my go to foot wear when I go out for landscape photography.
They are insanely comfortable, warm and enable me to go wherever I want to go, even into a lake or river or sea if I want to get a good picture.
This is one of my biggest pieces of advice, as I have been able to hike for several miles in these wellies. They are unlike the cheap wellies that most people are used to, and they are certainly so different to the ones I had as a kid.
I have never had wellies like these and if you had to buy one thing from this list then wellies is it!
9. Head Torch
I carry a Petzl Actik Head Torch with me most of the time. It’s a very useful piece of kit. I use it for astrophotography in particular or for early morning approaches to get in to position for sunrise, and its a good insurance policy, if for any reason I am out and the day is coming to an end, I don’t have to worry about rushing back to my car because I will be able to find my way using the head torch. A simple thing that could save your life!
10. Warm Clothes
I always carry a hat, snood, gloves and an extra insulating layer, I tend to pack a lightweight Ice Breaker Hyperia Hooded Jacket to protect myself from the elements.
If you have read Story Behind the Photo: Star Trails Over Garten then you will know that I was absolutely freezing that night even though I had these pieces of kit. It’s really important to try and keep yourself warm, particularly when you stop moving, so extra layers are a brilliant thing that you won’t regret when you need them.
11. Waterproof Layer
Maybe it’s because I am living in Scotland but I always have a waterproof jacket and trousers in my bag.
When it rains in Scotland, it rains hard and having waterproof trousers can be brilliant thing to keep you dry and therefore warm. I use Berghaus Goretex Waterproof Jacket and Trousers, and they have proven to be brilliant. Withstanding some of the harshest conditions Scotland has to offer!
12. Multi Mat Seat
I keep this Multi Mat Folding Foam Seat in my bag, it can be incredibly useful for a few reasons. Not only is it a brilliant seat, which insulates your bum from the cold floor and provides a little cushioning when sitting on stones.
But I have also used it as a rain and sun cover over my camera and lens to stop the odd drop getting on the front of the lens and to stop flaring from the sun.
13. Waterproof Camera Cover
Bad weather conditions shouldn’t stop you from getting some good pictures, and often some of the best light comes after or with the rain. I use a Simple Camera Cover to protect my cameras, although the cameras I have talked about are weather sealed but that works only up to a certain point and I would rather be safe than sorry, so I use a cover as well.
For my 500mm lens, I bought a specialist rain cover: Lens Coat Rain Coat 2 Pro. It’s camouflaged which prevents the white lens from standing out and it has proved very waterproof! Lens Coat have a range of camera covers depending on the size of the lens that needs to be covered, so check them out to find the right size!
14. Camera Bag
For wildlife photograpghy, I tend to use my F-Stop Tilopa 50 Litre backpack or my F-Stop Shin 80 Litre backpack depending on how much extra gear I want to carry. As well as the bags themselves they offer Internal Camera Units or ICUs in different sizes, these are essentially padded cubes that go into the backpack to protect your camera gear and are easily accessible from the zipped back panel.
I don’t use the ICUs for wildlife photography because the 500mm lens with a camera on it is far too big, instead I slip it inside the bag and put my extra clothing around it to cushion it until I am where I need to be. The downsides to these bags are that they are not cheap and that they are not perfect, but they are the best I’ve come across yet.
15. Drybag
Typically instead of using the ICU that F-Stop makes I line my bag with a Karrimor 40 Litre Dry Pack, this is to ensure that my equipment will not get wet no matter what happens.
I could literally drop my bag in a river or the sea and as long as the dry pack was closed properly then I have nothing to worry about and my gear will be perfectly fine.
This does mean my stuff tends to be loose in the bag but I use my extra clothes and bits to pad things a bit, and I am yet to break anything or cause damage.
On the other hand I have had a camera break due to water damage, so I am very cautious about that. I have different sized dry bags for each of my camera bags, so that each bag is lined with a dry bag.
16. First Aid Kit and Blister Plasters
I usually carry a small first aid kit in my bag. Thus far I have never had to use it but I feel like it’s better to have one and not need it than to need it and not have one.
As well as a first aid kit, I always carry some Compeed Blister Plasters. Especially after I have had a couple of bad experiences, where I forgot my plasters and had the biggest blisters ever, I mean like tennis balls on the heel of my foot!
So after that I always carry them to prevent blisters and if I have a blister then I can treat easily. You might have been able to guess that I do believe in the idea of “better to be prepared”.
17. GPS, Maps and Compass
I use a Garmin eTrex 30x handheld GPS unit to help keep track of where I am, I take this with some spare batteries and I try to limit my use, so that I have it available when I need it rather than relying on it and then finding it has lost power when I do need it.
So I always take a map and compass as well and I try to use these over my GPS unit to know where I am and where I am going.
Luckily I have quite a good sense of direction and I use these tools sparingly, but it’s important to know how to use them and be able to navigate your way.
18. Water and Food
The last thing that I want to mention is always bring more food than you think you will need, as when you are tired and cold having something to eat can really give you energy and lift your spirits.
That goes the same for water, I typically carry one or, more usual, two 1 Litre Osprey Nato Water Botttles. I use these because they are extremely rugged and can’t be damaged.
19. Whistle
I always keep a whistle in my bag or around my neck. This is because if I am in a remote location and I need help, a powerful whistle is the best way to attract attention. Everyone that is going into the mountains ought to be carrying a whistle like a Life Systems Safety Whistle as they are extremely loud!
20. Midge Net
If you have been following along on my YouTube Channel then you will have noticed that my midge net has been used more times than I can count this year! It is definitely an essential piece of kit not to be left behind! Super light and small, just throw in the bottom of your bag and forget about it!
Conclusion
This is all of the kit that I would consider taking with me on a wildlife photography day excursion. To be honest, I don’t take every piece of kit with me every time, instead I think about what I want to capture on that day and take a subset of items.
When working a long way from the car or hide then I need to think about weight and what would enable me to capture the images that I want, so I have to prioritise my equipment.
I hope this overview of wildlife photography kit hasn’t put you off! You can certainly get started with something as simple as a camera and kit zoom lens! The best wildlife photography comes from passion and perseverance rather than what kit you’ve got in your bag!
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Written by Daniel Long
Daniel Long created DRL Photography as a place to showcase his work as a photographer. Daniel has learnt a lot about photography and wishes to impart this knowledge with you, although the world is an ever changing place and he always says “you can never learn everything.” So as he makes his way, he continues to learn knew techniques, skills and information about photography. He focuses on Landscape and Wildlife photography and Daniel has a special focus on Scotland, his home away from home. As well as writing about photography and taking pictures out in the field, Daniel offers guided photography days so he can share his knowledge and locations in an effort to give his clients the best opportunities possible. Have a browse around this website to see his images, guided experiences and articles about photography. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to get in contact.
